Within the medieval walls of Tourrettes sur Loup lies a restaurant that truly lives up to its matriachal name. The day we visited, the Grand-Mere in question was sitting above the kitchen by a window, waving and chatting to diners as they arrived, whilst the younger members of her family were busy in the kitchen.

The tables at 'Chez Grand-Mere' are arranged on the cobbled square outside, with huge awnings to protect you from the sun in summer. In the winter, the interior is just as inviting, with a cosy log fire on which sausages and steak haches are cooked in front of you. The North African influence is very strong along in this region close to the perfumed town of Grasse, so we opted to share the daily special of chicken tajine served with vegetables and couscous.

The delicate aroma of Moroccan spices, chicken and lemon was every bit as flavoursome as any I've eaten in Marrakech. The couscous was fluffy and light and the vegetables in their distinctive sauce were a meal in themselves. The menu here is short but accomplished.

'Chez Grand-Mere' is the kind of restaurant you could easily miss, hidden in a nook of Tourrettes Old Town away from better known and for my money, less impressive establishments. Lunch for four came to €85, comprising one course, wine and coffee.

Telephone : +33 (0)4 93 59 31 63

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