La Civette du Cours in Nice - Where Gay and Straight Integrate

Ask any French person what the word 'civette' means, and they'll tell you it's a 'local bar'. All over the country you'll find village bistros called 'La Civette'. Originally, these establishments sold cigars. 'La civette' is the triangular shaped red sign (also referred to as a 'carotte') which lets passers-by know that they've found a tobacconist.
'La Civette du Cours' in Nice doesn't sell tobacco, but it totally fits the image of a traditional French 'local bar', with its large terrace filled with vintage-esque shabby furniture. It's definitely 'bar à la francaise'.
The interior oozes nostalgia, and one gets a reassuring feeling of 'déjà vu'. The food is good, if not especially original - socca, bruschetta, crêpes, salads and a 'menu du jour' recommended by the 'patron'.

The clientele are regulars who work in the neighbourhood, the inevitable tourists, and people who just sit with a drink, savouring the atmosphere for hours on end, participating in the national sport of 'people watching', poking fun and sharing the tragedies and misfortunes of life.
This Nice bar and restaurant is perfectly located on the famous 'Cours Saleya' and has thankfully managed to survive amongst the wave of new lounge bars, organic eateries and sushi restaurants. Nice Matin even used an image of 'La Civette du Cours' for an article about the lowering of VAT for the restaurant industry.
So, why does this nice but totally normal restaurant deserve a write-up? Well, ask any Niçois or even tourist which is the most trendy, gay friendly, bar in Nice, and they will reply without a doubt 'La Civette du Cours'! Yes, this product of French gastronomic and social culture is also totally gay friendly. Any self respecting gay person will have been to the 'La Civette du Cours' at least once.


Gay and Lesbian folk mix happily with straight couples and lovers kiss without any bother. Gay events such as the Rainbow Party are advertised along side the Gay Pride flag. Conversation flows - as does the bitching! It's all very relaxed and cool.
The rainbow revolution at the 'La Civette du Cours' is in full swing but still in keeping with the French "civette" traditions. 'La Civette du Cours' is a perfect example of the acceptance of homosexuality within traditional French culture. At 'La Civette du Cours', cultural codes are reinterpreted, owned and shared. Going for a drink there is a sign of support for French rainbow power.
Check-in to La Civette du Cours on foursquare here
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