In the South of France, markets have traditionally been a central feature of life since the Middle Ages. No single event better symbolises the French preoccupation with fresh produce and their strong ties to the farmer and community than the local marché en plein air, also known as the marché découvert (open-air market), open one or more days per week, or the marché couvert (covered market places) also called les halles, open up to six days per week. Smaller villages normally have produce markets and the more populous towns tend to have the larger, Marché Provençal, offering farmers' products in addition to clothing, linens, pottery, soaps, and other regional paraphernalia in bright colours.

If you live here, consider yourself lucky, food wise; our region offers some of the best organically grown (i.e., without the aid of chemical pesticides) fruit and vegetables in the country and summer time is no exception. Fragrant with herbs like thyme, tarragon, lavender and garlic, the market is always a pleasant place to shop. Even if you do not know which produce is in season, you won't go wrong as what is on display is what is in season and most are picked the same day they are sold. At even the smallest of the marché du village, you will often find, alongside the fresh produce, locally made preserves (confitures and confits), dried and crystallised fruits, numerous varieties of olives and olive oil, dried sausages, organic wines and spirits, flowers, and fresh and dried locally grown herbs and spices.

Herbs de Provence is especially popular in the local cuisine, used in almost anything from soups to seasoning for meats and vegetables. The signature Provençale dish Ratatouille (also made famous recently by a cartoon movie featuring a rat with the same name) made of aubergines, courgettes, peppers, and tomatoes is full of these herbs and is loved by locals as a side dish to meat and fish alike.

During the hot summer months, the best market to buy fresh vegetables and fruits is usually as close as your nearest village. The natives tend to stay loyal to their local marchés (the Marseillaise to their markets and the Niçoise to theirs, for example), and opening times are more frequent during peak season. The quality of the produce sold is often very good and the likes of Jacques Chibois (two-starred Michelin chef) and Keisuke Matsushima (one Michelin star) frequent them in person, always first thing in the morning, to select the ingredients for their delectable gastronomic menus. For these famous chefs, Nice's open air market, at the Cours Saleya in the old town, tops their list for the freshest, most full-flavoured fruits and vegetables.

Les produits des terroires, or products of the region (like olives and oils, wines, and truffles) can often be found in the open air markets but are also sold in boutiques just next to, or near the markets in the centre of town. In winter, for example, locally hunted truffles can be found at special truffle markets or festivals or at year-round truffle specialty shops, neatly packaged in jars and gift boxes. These days the numerous specialty olive oil shops also box up their products with fancy labels in an attempt to justify outrageously higher prices. At some markets they are sold by the litre, so you can bring your own bottles for a top-up and save a bundle. The same goes for good cote de Provence wine that can be found at almost any marché paysan (covered farmers' market open most days until noon). For the best prices in bottled local wines, however, it is best to head straight to the vineyards that are open to the public and where tasting is always free.

Not surprisingly, in the areas where there are the greatest concentration of anglophones (for example in Valbonne and Antibes) prices for market produce are much higher; up to four times as much for a slightly larger-than-normal pear, for example. The Cote d'Azur and coastal towns in general, also tend to see more expensive food prices than in the Var and inland departments.

The best times to visit a market also depends on which area you wish to shop in. The covered market in Cannes at Marché Forville, for example, is open from early in the morning until midday and the best time to visit is early morning in order to avoid the crowds, full car parks and of course the high temperatures from late morning onwards which can affect the quality of the produce in summer. On the other hand, prices can also come down towards the end of the market day as often the farmers do not want to take back their produce and so sell it off at bargain prices.

The same can be said for the market in Nice, whose flower market is especially impressive. Although the art of bargaining is not culturally predominant in France, it is becoming more and more an acceptable method of trade, especially in areas where income from tourism is an economic necessity. Hence the exchanges between farmers and patrons, often marked by flailing hand gestures and loud bursts of "oh la laahs," provide much amusement to any observer.

Another well-loved and popular market is found in picturesque Aix-en-Provence, although parking spaces are scarce and usually located on the outskirts of town rather than in the centre. The Antibes market, well-integrated into the town centre, also offers a brocante (antiques) market in the main square and is just a short walk from a pretty port-side beach. One of the oldest and largest markets can be found in Carpentras, a tradition here that dates back to the year 1155. For fish and seafood, by far the best market is the one next to the port in Marseille where the local restaurants' bouillabaisse is a must-try dish, less laborious to eat than to make yourself. In Toulon, the market in Cours Lafayette is bustling with activity and locals munching chichifregis, the famous sweet doughnuts sold at the stalls here.

Locally grown market produce will always prove superior in quality to that of supermarkets in France. In terms of freshness and price, as well as for the variety of organically grown fruits and vegetables, it is by far the better choice for satisfying the gourmands among us. And even if you are a tourist, the markets are well-worth visiting for a colourful, free form of entertainment while sipping a morning coffee (or glass of chilled rosé) at a nearby café in the beautiful Mediterranean weather.

For more information about markets in your area and beyond, including opening and closing times, check out FR2DAY over the coming weeks.

Photography by William Campbell

The Diamond Fungus - Black Truffles in France Truffle season has arrived in Provence and this year promises gastronomic heaven for those who indulge in these peculiar-looking mushrooms. READ MORE

Terres de Truffes - a Truffle Restaurant in Nice The 'Terres de Truffes' restaurant in Vieux Nice is the place to go for truffles, especially if it's your first time sampling the delicacy. READ MORE

Pick Some Mushrooms Autumn is here and it's the season for one of France's favorite rural pastimes; the seeking out, buying, selling, cooking and eating of mushrooms! READ MORE